Things you need for a fish tank

Things you need for a fish tank

There are many possible things you need for a fish tank. Here are compositional combinations of the most common and available types. Experienced fishkeepers are offered some problematic fish species for keeping and breeding.

The described design options for fish tank based on the type of biological similarity and the geographical principle will help the novice Amateur fishkeepers to see the results of their work on the simplest examples, take a step towards creating a more complex aquarium.

Whatever the fish tank capacity – small /60x30x30/, medium /90x50x45/ or large /within 180 liters with design parameters in the ratio of 2:1; 1: 1/ – the thickness of the glasses should provide a sufficient margin of safety of the aquarium. For example, for our aquarium for 160-180 liters, it should be within 8 mm.

Things you need for a fish tank

If you are faced with the question of buying a new fish tank, first you need to know things about it, in this article, you will get what you need. Here you can choose any aquarium you like and all related products. The online store offers only high-end products with high-quality photos and descriptions, which will allow you to evaluate the product offered and make the right choice.

When deciding on the location of the aquarium, its appearance, its decorative design – whether it is mounted in the interior of furniture or stands on a rack-it is necessary to take into account all the design features that ensure normal working conditions.

Appliances

The entire plane of the bottom of the aquarium should lie on a metal frame-stand with an asbestos pad. The frame has a bottom and supports that form a niche along the entire length of the aquarium. You should also install the back wall, and on the sides – movable curtains for ventilation and temperature control in the aquarium. At the front, the opening of the niche can be limited to at least half by sliding walls. The height of the niche is chosen so that it is freely possible to place electrical equipment devices – a thermostat, throttles of fluorescent lamps or a heater, start-up devices for lighting and temperature. The heat coming from the electrical equipment rises up, heats the bottom of the aquarium – this is necessary for the proper maintenance of soil and plant roots in the Dutch aquarium. The aquarium itself is installed on a heat-insulating pad under the niche along its entire length.

On the surface of the aquarium on racks /or a separate structure/ mounted along the length and width of the reflective cap, painted inside with enamel paint or finished with any heat-resistant material of white color. Inside it, fluorescent and incandescent lamps are installed. The cap and the niche where the equipment will be located in the future, cover with decorative material, capturing the end of the ground in the aquarium so that the water surface line is not visible from the viewer.

It has long been known that the best lighting is considered to be combined, consisting of fluorescent and incandescent lamps. If we consider the equal light output of these two sources, then the total power they make a ratio of approximately 3:1. Therefore, based on the volume of our aquarium, three fluorescent lamps of the type LBU or LTB of 30 W and two incandescent lamps of 40 W are installed. Lamps are distributed over the entire area above the surface of the aquarium. This ratio of lamp types stimulates plant growth, as the result is a range of the red and purple light spectrum. The most rational light day of the aquarium is considered to be 12 hours. As the researchers confirm, more intense and prolonged lighting causes water blooms, the appearance of green and blue-green algae. Switching on and off should be done at the same time of day and in this sequence: first in the morning, turn on /preferably automatically and smoothly/ incandescent lamps, then after 15-20 minutes – fluorescent for the whole day, and turn off in reverse order for the same time, simulating sunrise and sunset. During the day, the heating of lamps at maximum illumination increases the temperature, as in nature, but not above 28°C. This mode should be adjusted experimentally during the day by manipulating the curtains of the niche /or using an additional micro-fan / based on the average room temperature. The night water temperature should be adjusted in the morning when it is stabilized in the aquarium, and with the help of a thermostat set no lower than 24-25bc. This temperature regime favors rapid growth of plants, and fish feel better than in cool water, which usually contributes to the preparation for spawning in the pre-spawning period.

The next thing you need for a fish tank before you start building the interior of the aquarium, you need to develop a life-size terrain plan on a chart or paper, depict the location of plants, terraces, snags, stones… The General recommendation may look like this: lay the ground with an elevation to the back wall, the smallest thickness of which is equal to four centimeters. To prevent it from sliding down, the area is divided along the length of the terraces with a winding strip of plexiglass. At the foot of the terraces, there are stones, snags, a temperature controller sensor / inside the ground, plants are planted throughout the area. A mechanical filter and a thermometer are placed on the side of the sidewall.

The best ground color is considered dark. On this soil, plants look more contrasting, and the colors of fish become brighter, and the animals themselves feel calmer.

Before placing it in the aquarium, the soil is boiled, washed, keeping the drain water clean. The treated soil must be kept in a vessel with water for a month.

Soil

Next thing you need for a fish tank in soil. The soil contains nutrients for various plants as taking the main food through the roots, and for sucking it and through the leaves. Therefore, for the Dutch aquarium, as well as for others, it is important which plant will be planted and on what soil. It is known that many plants need a soil consisting of gravel and coarse sand, and for those that feed through the roots – with the addition of clay. Clay in the form of lumps or balls is placed under the roots of plants, having previously kept the balls in the open air for two to three months in a place protected from precipitation.

Driftwood types you need for a fish tank are preferable from dead beech, oak, willow, alder trees that have lain for a long time in running water /rivers, channels/ or in peat beds. You can’t use driftwood, lying in the rotting swamps or ditches with stagnant water. Treat snags in a highly concentrated salt solution in an enameled basin, boiling them for an hour. To prevent snags from surfacing, they are pressed with stones. After cooling, wash in running water. If the snags do not float, it means that the air has been removed from them and now it remains to check them for toxicity. To do this, place snags in a separate aquarium with well-settled water and launch something like seluang fish or other type of sensitive to various types of toxic substances that fall into the wastewater of rivers and lakes. The health of fish is monitored for a week by the presence of changes in their appetite, signs of swaying, violation of the rhythm of breathing, the type of feces /whether the appearance of filamentous excrement is observed/. After lying in the settled water driftwood should not change their color. Otherwise, they should be considered unsuitable. Stones, as well as soil, are boiled and left for a long time in the water.

Plants

An important thing you need for a fish tank is plants. They are selected according to the shape and size of the species, based on how they will look in a particular place in the aquarium. Plant asymmetrically. In the Dutch aquarium, depending on the volume, the number of large plants with large leaves is limited to two or three bushes. Near each large Bush, it is advisable to plant low and small other species. The rest of the area is planted with small-leaved clearings. Each clearing has one type of plant. The landing takes up the entire length of the foreground and gradually narrows to the back wall, which creates the illusion of perspective. The right and left corners and sides of the aquarium can be planted in groups of such species that will cover the water surface in this area during growth /Vallisneria, Watermilfoils/. Closer to the corners and further from the walls, you can plant a long-leaved Barclays or Echinodorus. The background should be made up of well-viewed low and shallow views. Plants such as Aponogeton crispus, Aponogeton ulvaceus, Barclaya longifolia, water Lotus, the Echinodorus bleheri, Echinodorus osiris, Echinodorus berteroi.

Сan act as single plants. Seating for individual clearings both front and back-to-back suitable kinds of style of Helanthium tenellum, Cryptocoryne wendtii, Cryptocoryne nevillii, Cryptocoryne beckettii.

Before planting, cuttings and bushes should remove the lower rotted and injured leaves. Fill the aquarium with one-third water. Plants that are not held in the ground and pushed by water to the surface, press down with stones and leave them in this position until they take root. After two or three weeks, the stones can be removed.

After planting, the water is topped up to a level slightly higher than the viewing glass, turn on the devices and leave the aquarium without fish for two or three weeks. During this time, the balance of the environment is established, the water becomes lighter, the plants sitting awkwardly in the ground change their appearance, the leaves turn to the light, change color, and begin to grow. During this time, the fishkeeper selects fish and prepares them for settlement in the aquarium.

For the Dutch aquarium, fish from the family of Characidae, Pupfish, catfish are best suited. Many fishkeepers prefer Characidae. This is a family of inhabitants of the waters of America and Africa. There is a great variety of them in the Amazon basin – they have no equal in brightness, variety of color, and shape.

Fish and quarantine

Fish are selected young, healthy and diverse. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account their natural compliance with the specified conditions, the uniform placement of the aquarium’s water layers, the requirement of each species for water temperature, the peaceful attitude to the community of other species, the number and size of animals at the rate of six to eight liters per fish.

Important thing you need for a fish tank is to threat fish purchased at the market or in a store are transported in plastic bags, protected from hypothermia, before landing in an insulator aquarium, a bag of fish is lowered into the water of this aquarium to equalize the temperature in the bag.

In the separate aquarium for quarantine fish-newcomers must pass the period of acclimatization and adaptation to the care regime and daily routine of the new farm, which, of course, will affect the health of fish /as the practice has shown, we can not hope for the best/. During this time, prevention is carried out-bathe in saline solution /a tablespoon of salt per 10 liters of water/ for 15-20 minutes, select some weak and painful. Healthy fish should have a bright color of the body and eyes, smooth structure of scales, swim in the area that is characteristic of the type and position of the body of this species. Acclimatization period – at least a week. The period allotted / conditionally/ for the balance of the environment is at least two weeks. Fish are launched into the aquarium only after this period and in the first two days are not fed, if all the selected species are not of juvenile age.

Adult fish are fed once or twice at the same time in a certain place, preferably above the bottom, where there are no large objects and plants. Dry food is placed in a floating feeder fixed on the surface of the water.

If catfish or other bottom species live in the aquarium, the feed is introduced in two steps – the first feed saturates the takers from the surface, the second-after 15-20 minutes /give live food, the amount of which is set experimentally/. Uneaten food should not remain at the bottom for more than half an hour. Live and dry food are better not to combine, give live food two or three days in a row, dry-one day. Green food is best fed during fasting, which is carried out two or three days in a row in two weeks.

Conclusion

Every day, you need to make a control inspection of the aquarium and equipment, check the temperature, the state of the water and fish, and feed residues.

Once a week, wash the filter, check whether there are algae on the plants and walls of the aquarium. Remove rotten leaves, clean the bottom of the aquarium with a mud collector, and a hose from the remains of feed and excrement, while the water change should not exceed 1/10 of the total volume.

Once a month repair or prevention equipment, remove the rotten leaves of the plants and weed the overgrown places. Clean the glass with a wiper/scraper/.

I hope you found out all the things you need for a fish tank in this article, if you need more please check out other articles on our website.