cloudy aquarium water

Causes of cloudy aquarium water

This is one of the most popular aquarium questions. Therefore, we are not allowed to bypass this problem.

Cloudiness from small particles

When the aquarium starts, the first day the water, as a rule, a little muddy dust floats from the soil not washed enough (no matter how high-quality it is, it is ideal to wash it off completely). Typically, such cloudiness during the day partially settles and is partially filtered by a filter.
It so happens that muddiness from suspended particles has to be fought constantly. This happens if you have fish digging in the ground in your tank. The same reason may be the old, rotting driftwood, which crumbles over time, and catfish help it in this. With a big population, it is worthwhile to take care of a fairly good filtration (both mechanical and biological), because at any moment our measured particles, which themselves do no harm to anyone, can turn into bacterial cloudiness, because everything decays and decomposes over time.

Bacterial cloudiness

If the water in your aquarium has become milky – you have a bacterial outbreak. What it is? The fact is that in the aquarium microorganisms always exist and provide the nitrogen cycle, the decomposition of organics, toxic compounds, and other things. Although they are invisible, they do a very large and responsible job of cleaning the aquarium.

When you start the aquarium, there are few bacteria, but after receiving the necessary conditions, they begin to multiply intensively. During periods of intensive reproduction of bacteria, we observe bacterial outbreaks in the aquarium.

If this happens at the start of the aquarium, this is considered normal and it is not recommended to intervene in this process. As a rule, appearing somewhere on the 3-5th day from the launch, the cloudiness passes on its own in 2-3 days, but it can be repeated in another 10 days.

All these data are approximate and each launch is individual – in some aquarium decomposition of adaptive plants takes place, in some aquarium fish already eat, eat and crap, and in some aquarium bacteria are populated by adding water, adding soil from the old aquarium, and using a loop filter (that worked in an old aquarium) – with such a start, a bacterial outbreak may not be observed.

But it happens that in the old, long-running aquarium appears white haze. This usually occurs due to excessive water changes (more than 30%) or an excess of nutrients. The reason for the first case is the leaching of beneficial bacteria with the need for subsequent replenishment of their number. And in the second case – due to overfeeding of fish, irregular cleaning, or rotting processes.

This problem is eliminated by balancing the system yourself, but if you want to speed up the process, you can use branded preparations with bacteria colonies or old water from a running aquarium.

At such moments, it is necessary to aerate the water well, since not only fish and plants (at night) but aerobic bacteria will require oxygen – there may not be enough for everyone .. If you make a replacement for fresh water, it will become easier for the fish for a short period of time, but the process of restoring the balance will be delayed – so you can fight with water muddiness indefinitely and the fish will become poisoned, hurt or at the end die.

Of course, here in any situation, it will not do without victims, therefore it is better to prevent a bacterial outbreak than to fight it. And for this, it is necessary to provide proper care for the aquarium, the correct feeding regime, and temperature regime. During aquarium cleaning, do not forget to collect the rotten leaves of the plants, and siphon where possible soil. When feeding your aquarium fish, try to make sure that all the food is eaten and does not rot at the bottom of the aquarium.

It is worth mentioning another type of short-term cloudiness of the water – when pouring fresh water from the tap. This has nothing to do with bacteria. This happens mainly due to the temperature difference and different concentrations of gases (mainly oxygen). Such turbidity disappears after 15-20 minutes and does not pose mortal danger. However, if at the same time about 30% of the volume of the aquarium is poured, the fish may experience a short-term shock (lie down). Therefore, it is better to use standing water that is dechlorinated.